How to Slap Chop Paint Miniatures With a Zenithal Drybrush

Last updated August 25, 2026. By Andrew M. Tan.

If you want to paint a miniature army quickly and still keep readable light and shadow, Slap Chop is a method I’ve used in competition and commission work. Begin with a black undercoat, drybrush gray and white from above, then apply transparent color. It is a practical way to get models battle-ready without an airbrush.

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The useful part is the underpainting. Spending a few deliberate minutes establishing where the light falls gives every later color coat something to follow. A pile of unpainted models feels more manageable when the shadows and highlights are already doing part of the work.

Finished Slap Chop miniature beside black, gray, and white underpainting stages

What You’ll Learn

Build a black-to-gray-to-white zenithal underpainting with a drybrush
Apply translucent color while keeping the shadows and highlights visible
Avoid chalky drybrushing, pooled paint, and flat-looking color

Painter applying translucent color to a green Tau miniature — “Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast” – US Navy Seals

What Is Slap Chop Painting?

Slap Chop is a speed-painting method built around a high-contrast underpainting, sometimes called grisaille. Start dark, drybrush a middle gray across the model, then reserve white for the upward-facing edges and highest points. Apply translucent paint over that value sketch, and the color settles differently over shadows, midtones, and highlights.

“Zenithal” simply means treating the top of the miniature as if light were coming from above. For an airbrushed version of the same idea, see my guide to airbrush zenithal highlights. This article stays with the drybrush method, which is simpler to set up and easier to use at an ordinary hobby desk.

Diagram showing a zenithal light sprayed from above a miniature — An airbrush can create zenithal highlights, but a drybrush gives you the same top-down lighting idea with less setup.

You don’t need an airbrush or spray paint for the zenithal undercoat. A regular drybrush can recreate the same light-to-dark structure by hand.

Grymkin miniatures painted with dark shadows and bright zenithal highlights — With zenithal highlighted miniatures, you can add high-contrast color in a matter of minutes using transparent inks, glazes, or washes.

For 28–35mm miniatures, including Warhammer 40,000 models, a skilled Slap Chop painter can finish a single figure to a high-quality tabletop standard in less than 20 minutes. I consider Slap Chop one of the fastest painting methods because it gives you a practical balance between speed and quality.

Group of Warmachine knights speed-painted with zenithal underpainting — I painted this entire collection of Warmachine miniatures in a single weekend using speed painting techniques.

In general, the Slap Chop method consists of a dark-to-light underpainting followed by a filter of translucent color. That color can come from Contrast paints, ink, Speedpaint, or glazes. The drybrushed underpainting establishes the model’s volume before the color goes on.

Miniature shown first with a black-and-white underpainting and then with colored glazes — I painted this almost entirely with glazes and washes over a black-and-white zenithal underpainting.

Here is how I use the method at my own hobby desk.

How to Slap Chop Paint Miniatures

For fast paint jobs, I use the following three steps:

1. Prime the Miniature Black

Begin by priming the miniature with a black base coat. This layer gives the later colors something durable to grip and establishes the deepest shadows. If you want to paint any miniatures fast, e.g., speed paint, Slap Chop, a black base coat of paint or primer will always be your first choice.

Bare plastic Warmachine miniature ready for primer in a spray booth — A bare plastic model is now ready for primer.

Close-up of a miniature covered with a smooth near-black primer — I used a dark gray almost black colored primer to start this paint job.

2. Drybrush Gray, Then White, From Above

Drybrush medium gray across the whole miniature first. Then use white more selectively on the upper edges, face, shoulders, raised texture, and other places that would catch overhead light. Keep the white pass lighter than you think you need. You are establishing a map for the color, and my drybrushing guide covers the basic motion and paint consistency in more detail.

Drybrush applying white paint over a black-primed miniature — After applying a black base coat of color, I applied a dry brush of white paint over the raised surfaces of the model.

White drybrushing catching the raised texture of a black miniature — Working my way from the top-down, I dry-brushed the white paint to recreate the visual effect of an imaginary light source from above.

Completed black, gray, and white zenithal drybrush underpainting — Here you can see the zenithal highlights against the black base coat. Together, they create the contrast you’re looking for in your underpainting.

3. Apply Translucent Paint or Glazes

Apply Contrast-style paint, Speedpaint, ink, or a thin glaze over the prepared surface. Work one small area at a time and guide excess paint away from large recesses before it dries. Textured areas reward this method especially well; Games Workshop’s Contrast guidance makes the same practical point about textured detail and broad, flat panels.

Brush being loaded with translucent green dipping ink from a palette — I load my brush with Green Stuff World Dipping Ink. Any paint medium with enough transparency will work.

Bottle of Green Stuff World Dipping Ink — You can find a huge variety of Green Stuff World Dipping Inks in all sorts of colors. They come in huge bottles and will last you a long, long time!

Translucent green ink being applied over a grayscale miniature — A single layer of dipping ink or contrast color paints (Citadel) will allow your underlying black-and-white paint job to show through.

Green glaze covering the armor of a zenithal-underpainted miniature — Applying that first single layer of transparent color took less than 2 minutes. Allow this layer to dry fully before applying another, or moving to paint another part of the model.

You can also use premixed Contrast paints, including Citadel Contrast Colors, which I’ve reviewed here, or Green Stuff World Dipping Inks. The important property is transparency: the black, gray, and white underpainting should remain visible through the color.

Miniature after its first translucent green color coat — This is what the model looks like after I applied 2-3 layers of the green dipping ink, followed by accent details. I painted the metallic parts using Army Painter metallic paints. I also applied a thin wash of Agrax Earthshade to parts of the model to emphasize the armor panel lines and texture. To get to this step, it took me about 20 minutes of work, and most of this time was waiting for underlying layers to dry. Use a hairdryer if you want to work faster.

How to Slap Chop Paint Miniatures in Three Steps

Step	What to Do	What to Watch
1. Prime Black	Cover the miniature with a smooth black or near-black primer coat.	Check that the deepest recesses are covered.
2. Drybrush Gray and White	Build a broad gray midtone, then place white on the upward-facing details.	Avoid overloading the brush or creating a chalky surface.
3. Apply Translucent Color	Glaze the prepared surface with Contrast-style paint, ink, or another transparent color.	Move pooled paint before it dries, especially on flat panels.

The rest of this guide takes a closer look at drybrush choice, light direction, optional finishing steps, basing, varnish, and the paints I use over this underpainting.

Best Zenithal Dry Brush (Tool Recommendation)

Yes, you can paint zenithal highlights without an airbrush or using a spray primers. To paint the underpainting you need to start with in the slapchop speed painting approach, the best way is to use the dry brush technique (as mentioned above).

Assorted round cosmetic brushes suitable for miniature drybrushing — Affordable, and near-disposable, these cosmetic brushes work perfectly as dry brushes. Just don’t expect them to last a long time.

In my opinion, the best drybrush for creating a zenithal underpainting is an inexpensive cosmetic brush, or an inexpensive hobby-branded drybrush.

The Army Painter drybrush set in retail packaging — I’ve been using The Army Painter Masterclass Drybrushes for years.

Drybrush being loaded with white miniature paint — Using the Army Painter Drybrush. Load up!

When you’re looking for a brush to apply a zenithal highlight, it is a good idea to find a drybrush that you don’t mind treating roughly. For new painters, this is extra important because you’ll want to learn as quick as you can for the least investment upfront.

Close-up of angled drybrush bristles — Stiff, durable bristles make a dry brush worth its weight in…paint.

Importantly, find a brush with fairly stiff bristles. This will give you more control over how the paint deposits on the raised surfaces of the model. It also creates the desired effect of keeping your shadows intact.

Drybrushed stone base with an object-source-lighting effect — You can combine dry brushing with other techniques, e.g., glazing and airbrushing, to create some amazing special effects. Check out how I painted this stone base using a combination of basic painting techniques.

Using a Drybrush to Mimic a Zenithal Light Source

The very top of the raised textures on your model should be highlighted. The shadows should remain dark within the recesses. The great thing about using a dry brush approach to applying the zenithal highlight is that it creates a final result that is effectively the same as you could achieve with spray cans with black and white primer (or paint).

Side view of a miniature with black-and-white drybrushed highlights — Notice how the drybrush application of white paint leaves behind a textured, characterful surface. This is the hallmark appearance of a zenithal highlight paint job applied with a regular brush. I love this effect.

In my experience, to get the smoothest effect with dry brushing, make sure to use a light touch. You shouldn’t have to apply much pressure from your dry brush onto the working surface of your miniature. Pigment should deposit fairly easily.

Hand holding an illuminated white light bulb — The zenithal highlighting technique replicates the appearance of a light source shining above your subject. This is a photo of such an effect in reality. Take a close look at how highlights and shadows juxtapose each other (i.e., above versus below), creating a high contrast scene. You can use a variety of miniature painting techniques to achieve this. The slap chop speed painting approach using a zenithal highlighted underpainting is the fastest way to achieve this effect. Photo by Luca Nardone on Pexels.com

Build Zenithal Highlights in Layers

If you’re worried that paint isn’t applying fast enough or in thick enough coats, then my advice here is to be patient. It will take a several layers of dry brushing when you’re doing it correctly to get decent coverage. This is especially true when you’re painting a white paint color over black undercoat.

Drybrush catching raised scales on an Age of Sigmar miniature — The dry brush technique is versatile. Use a light touch when brushing with your dry brush. You’ll achieve a higher quality finish, allow the highlighted pigments to stay on the upper surfaces of your miniatures.

Keep “swishing” your dry brush bristles over the model. Light coats of paint will stick to the raised surfaces of your model. Continue in layers, applying the pigment over progressively smaller and smaller areas until you’re satisfied with the result.

Slaves to Darkness miniature with smoke effects and dramatic lighting — Do you enjoy photography? I love photographing my painted minis using unique special effects, e.g., smoke and dramatic lighting.

The mimicked light source effect will emerge slowly. It will appear as though a virtual light bulb shining above your model has left a shadow on the under parts (e.g., the recesses) of your model. Your dry brushing should appear to “cast a shadow” or a kind of fake inverse shade.

Airbrushed zenithal highlights on a Conquest miniature's weapon — Using zenithal highlighting techniques, you can make all sorts of sculpted shapes “pop”. The contrast is what helps your painted miniatures stand out from the crowd.

Optional Steps for Extra Effects

The final step of any drybrush application is to make any corrections to the surface with another thin layer of highlights or shadows. The ultimate goal of zenithal highlights is to recreate the effect of light shining directly overhead of your miniature.

Fine detail brush painting edge highlights and battle damage — For emphasis, you can use a sharp pointed round paintbrush to edge highlight panels. The strong, bright pigment will further push the contrast of the underpainting. This process also gives you a tad more control over how your final paint job will look at the expense of taking up more of your time.

Optionally, I know some sticklers may paint additional edge highlights in spots to make sure the proper angle of any light reflections are clear to the viewer. This, of course, means you’re going to take more time to reach a completed model. I prefer getting the idea down quickly in true slapchop fashion.

Close-up of bright edge highlights painted on a miniature sword — Use edge highlighting to emphasize the hard shapes and volumes on your models.

Remember: zenithal highlighting mimics a light source. Use the drybrushing method to replace the use of normal spray cans or the use of a spray primer. Avoid using airbrush paints with a regular brush, if you can. These paints are too thin, i.e., runny, and hard to use properly with a dry brush technique.

Remember to Base and Varnish Your Models

After putting in the work of painting your miniature, you’ll want to base your model and varnish it. These steps serve as the proverbial cherry on top, providing both aesthetic and functional benefits to your work.

Why the Base Matters

The base is the presentation, the picture frame that surrounds your masterpiece. It grounds your work in a space and time you have total control over. Base your models to create the context required for your model to pop.

Vallejo texture paste beside a miniature prepared for basing — Vallejo Texture Mud is an acrylic medium that you can apply to any surface with a small spatula or sculpting tool. It dries fast, looks amazingly real, and creates a lovely base alone or when combined with other basing materials.

In gaming settings, a well-based miniature can provide clear demarcations for gameplay mechanics, making it easier for you and your opponent to see what is happening apart from the tabletop landscape.

Vallejo texture paste being spread across a miniature base — Apply your basing texture wherever your mind imagines it should go. There’s no real wrong way to create a compelling base. For those looking to get the job done quick, however, I suggest using pre-made basing materials, such as Citadel Technical paints or Vallejo texture effects.

You can use simple materials to base your miniatures. Or, you can sculpt an entirely new model for your painted piece to stand on. The world is your oyster and for many, including myself, the process of basing a miniature can become a hobby in itself!

Earth-colored texture paste drying on the finished miniature's base — And, done.

Why Varnish Matters

Once the model is painted and based, a layer of varnish serves as a protective coat. Here are three reasons you want to seal your painted miniatures with a high quality varnish:

Physical Protection: Miniatures often face rough handling, especially during gaming sessions. A varnish acts as a safeguard against chipping, scratching, and even the occasional spill.
UV Protection: Over time, the colors on your miniature can fade due to exposure to sunlight. A UV-resistant varnish can preserve the vibrancy of your colors for years to come.
Better contrast and color: A matte varnish, in particular will greatly improve the appearance of your painted model. By creating an even non-reflective surface over your model, color vibrancy and contrast will be greatly improved. Matte varnish can also be used to bring out the details of your model, as well as protect it against wear and tear from handling.

RELATED: BEST VARNISHES AND CLEAR COATS FOR PAINTED MINIATURES AND MODELS

Matte varnish being sprayed onto a miniature inside a cardboard booth — Spraying a matte varnish from a distance avoids pooling and frosting.

Top view of a varnished miniature showing color and surface contrast — With a matte varnish, color and contrast look great. It also makes photography easier.

Finished Slap Chop miniature photographed against a black backdrop — The final complete model; painted in less than 45 minutes.

Paints, Inks, and Washes for Zenithal Underpainting

You do not need a particular paint range to use Slap Chop. Look for a paint that is transparent enough to preserve the drybrushed value underneath, and test it on one miniature before committing to a whole unit.

Here are ten popular and less well-known ways to color a black-and-white underpainting.

Army Painter Quickshade Washes: Transparent washes that settle into recesses and tint broad areas.
Reaper Liner Series: Dark, transparent paints suited to lining and controlled shadows.
Citadel Contrast Colors: Flowing, translucent colors that preserve the value structure underneath. Contrast paints are popular for good reason; they work.
Tamiya Clear Acrylics: Used for translucent effects, often in scale modeling.
Scale 75 Instant Colors: Fast, translucent acrylic colors made for brush or airbrush application.
Green Stuff World Dipping Inks: Large-volume translucent inks useful for glazing, shading, and coloring.
Army Painter Speed Paints: A favorite of mine for adding color and shading in one controlled coat.
Liquitex Professional Acrylic Inks: Highly pigmented, artist-grade inks for tailored blends. May require thinning with glaze media or water for best results.
Daler-Rowney FW Artists’ Ink: Fine art-grade inks suitable for custom shades. As above, may require thinning with other additives or media for best results on miniatures.
P3 Formula Inks: Aimed at miniature painting, offering a solid range of colors.

For those looking for a larger volume of medium that you can “dip” your models into, or use liberally, I recommend taking a closer look at the Green Stuff World Dipping Ink line. These inks are formulated specifically for miniatures and there are a variety of colors to choose from as well, so you can get creative with your miniature painting schemes.

My Top Three Paints for Slap Chop

If you’re looking for my choices of translucent paint for speed painting over a zenithal undercoat, here they are:

1. Citadel Contrast Paint

Citadel Contrast Colors flow into recessed detail while allowing raised areas to remain lighter. That behavior works especially well over a deliberate black-to-gray-to-white underpainting. The official Contrast painting guidance also recommends them for textured surfaces, folds, fur, and faces.

Open pot of yellow Citadel Contrast paint

Citadel Contrast Paint is one of my first choices for Slap Chop miniature painting. Its translucency lets the underpainting supply the highlights and shadows, giving me a finished tabletop look with very little extra layering.

Citadel Contrast Paints

Pros

Time efficient: One coat can establish color and shading over the underpainting.
Wide range: The palette gives you plenty of choices for army schemes.
Easy to learn: The flow makes textured miniatures approachable for beginners.

Cons

Pooling: Excess paint can collect in recesses and dry unevenly.
Flat panels: Broad, smooth surfaces can show tide marks or blotches.

2. The Army Painter Speedpaint

The Army Painter Speedpaint is formulated to add saturated color, shading, and a light highlight in one coat. The current Speedpaint range is the reformulated 2.0 system, so I no longer apply the reactivation warning associated with the original formula as a blanket rule.

Speedpaint is a solid Slap Chop choice because it is quick to apply and easy to control on textured miniatures. I still varnish gaming pieces after painting because handling, transport, and repeated play can wear any acrylic finish.

The Army Painter Speedpaint

Pros

One-coat color: Designed to establish color and shading quickly.
Strong saturation: Useful when the gray-and-white underpainting is bright.
User-friendly: Easy to test on a single model before batch painting.

Cons

Pooling: Too much paint can overwhelm the drybrushed highlights.
Underpainting dependent: A dark or chalky value sketch will show through the final color.

3. Scale75 Instant Colors

Scale75 Instant Colors are translucent acrylic paints made for fast miniature painting. Scale75 describes the range as capable of producing a color gradient in one coat, with a matte finish and compatibility with both brush and airbrush.

I recommend Scale75 Instant Colors to painters who do not mind experimenting with load and coverage. The matte finish is especially useful when I want the drybrushed texture to remain easy to read.

Scale 75 Instant Colors

Pros

Matte finish: Keeps the underpainting easy to read under ordinary light.
One-coat gradient: Designed to create color variation in a single application.
Versatility: Suitable for both brush and airbrush use.

Cons

Learning curve: Paint load and coverage may take some experimentation.
Surface dependent: Uneven drybrushing remains visible beneath the transparent finish.

King of Nothing miniature painted with translucent contrast glazes — I painted this model almost entirely with translucence contrast glazes. “The King of Nothing” from the Grymkin faction | Warmachine-Hordes Miniatures game from Privateer Press.

Conclusion

As a commission miniature painter, I care about efficiency because it keeps a project moving while preserving the contrast that makes a model readable.

Slap Chop is useful because it gives you a repeatable way to make that progress. The black-to-gray-to-white underpainting makes the important decision first: where the miniature is light and where it is dark. Once that is in place, translucent color can carry a surprising amount of the finish.

The method is especially effective on textured gaming miniatures, where folds, armor joints, fur, and raised details help the paint settle naturally. Smooth panels need more attention because pooling and tide marks are easier to see.

For me, the creative value is simple: a few attentive minutes spent placing light can remove dozens of smaller decisions later. That makes a short hobby session feel productive and gives the next miniature a clear place to begin.

I hope you found this guide helpful. Are you using Slap Chop for an army, a board game, or a single display model? Leave a comment and let me know what is working at your hobby desk.

Happy mini painting!

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By Andrew M. Tan
Andrew is a commissioned miniature painter, photographer, and writer. He founded and edits Tangible Day, drawing on more than 20 years of hands-on hobby experience. Read his full bio.

How to Slap Chop Paint Miniatures With a Zenithal Drybrush

What You’ll Learn

What Is Slap Chop Painting?