Last updated September 7, 2026. By Andrew M. Tan.
So, you’ve spent hours painting miniatures. Now you want to protect your work with a varnish. For most Warhammer, military, and tabletop gaming miniatures, I recommend a thin, even coat of matte varnish. It protects the paint from handling, controls distracting reflections, and helps the model photograph cleanly.
In this article, I share the varnishes I use, where spray-on and brush-on finishes work best, and how I avoid the cloudy “frosted” finish that can ruin the last step.
Recommended Varnishes for Miniatures
The best matte varnishes for protecting miniatures include:
I highly recommend these varnishes for painted miniatures and models used for gaming or display. They are easy to use, durable, and work great for retaining the color and contrast of your paint job. The matte finish helps even out surface reflections that can distort the appearance of a painted miniature, while protecting the hard work you put into the model. Here’s a bit more detail about these varnishes and how I use them to get the best results.
1. Testors Dullcote Spray Lacquer
Note: If Testors Dullcote is unavailable, Tamiya TS-80 Flat Clear is the closest alternative I would consider. It also produces a matte finish, but test it first and allow the paint underneath to cure fully.
I use this on every miniature that I finish painting. This is the best spray-on lacquer varnish I’ve used for our painting hobby. It comes in a small can but lasts a long time. I’ve covered at least a hundred 28 mm-scale miniatures with a single can. For more detail on the product, see my Testors Dullcote review.
Testors Dullcote spray dries into a hard, matte finish. My varnished miniatures retain their overall color saturation while gaining an even, non-reflective surface.
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This is particularly useful for photography, where you want to reduce “hotspot” reflections. Check out my gallery to see models finished with Testors Dullcote. With a matte finish, the models retain their color and contrast under a variety of lighting conditions. Suffice it to say, varnish does the final work of completing a professional paint job.
QUICK TIPS FOR HOW TO USE TESTORS DULLCOTE SPRAY VARNISH
- Spray more than 6 inches from the miniature.
- Avoid high humidity. Around or below 50% has worked reliably for me.
- If you use a hair dryer, warm the model before spraying and move the dryer away from the spray area. Do not heat wet lacquer or active solvent vapor.
Here’s a useful video showing how to varnish miniatures using Testors Dullcote.
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Buy on Amazon |
2. Testors Dullcote Brush-On Lacquer
In general, spray-on varnish is the best way to achieve an even coat. However, there are specific uses for a brush-on varnish. First, it is useful as a final sealant over waterslide decals. If you’ve ever applied transfer decals to a model, you know how hard it can be to hide the sticker look. A thin coat of brush-on Testors Dullcote helps merge the decal texture with the painted model underneath.
Second, a brush-on lacquer varnish like Testors Dullcote hardens into a fairly rigid surface. This is useful for custom-made banners that you print out on computer paper. Coating paper banners, capes, or other miniature accessories with Testors Dullcote protects the printer ink from bleeding and helps hold their shape. I use Testors Dullcote brush-on varnish when I want to control the overall finish of specific parts of a model.
QUICK TIPS FOR HOW TO USE BRUSH-ON TESTORS DULLCOTE VARNISH
- Apply in super-thin layers with a synthetic brush, e.g., a wide flat-thin brush
- Clean your brush and work surface with a lacquer thinner and tool cleaner, such as Spaz Stix Airbrush Tool Wash.
- Useful for concealing wet-slide decals on models (“a perfect finish”)
- Protecting custom inkjet printed banners and standards
- Try to apply the brush-on varnish on a horizontal surface to prevent running or sagging. If you’re applying on a vertical surface, only use very thin coats at a time.
There are water-based brush-on varnishes, such as Vallejo Matte Varnish and The Army Painter Anti-Shine. These are easier to use indoors, though my Testors lacquer finish has held up better under long-term handling. The Army Painter also makes an acrylic spray varnish. In my experience, it can dry with a slight satin finish compared with Testors Dullcote.
A Quick Guide to Varnishing Miniatures
Across miniature-painting forums and social groups, varnishing is commonly recommended for gaming miniatures and board-game models. Matte clear coats are usually the first choice.
Some painters skip varnish on display-only models. For miniatures that will be handled, I think every new painter should learn how to apply a matte finish. There are several key reasons why:
Varnishing miniatures is important for protecting the paint job and improving photography of the models. If you’re sharing images of your models, present them in the best light possible. Use a matte spray varnish to create an evenly lit surface across the entire miniature.
The best matte varnishes are spray-on type sealants, such as Testors Dullcote. Overall, the best clear coats for miniatures used in gameplay or display are the ones you can apply in thin, even layers that enhance contrast and protect surface detail.
My Water-Based Alternative to Testors Dullcote
Spraying varnish is the best way to coat a model evenly. If you don’t want to use a solvent-based lacquer such as Testors Dullcote, there are water-based alternatives. Dullcote spray is an aerosol lacquer, so I use it with good ventilation and follow the label directions. It can also “frost” if applied too heavily or under poor drying conditions.
In this case, you might want to try a water-based matte varnish. I currently recommend Liquitex Matte Varnish. You can brush it on or apply it with an airbrush. Do not thin it with water. Liquitex recommends multiple thin coats and no more than one or two thin matte coats. If you need more build, use gloss first and finish with matte.
Advantage of non-aerosol water-based varnishes: A huge side benefit of a non-aerosol water-based varnish such as Liquitex is cost. It is much, much cheaper to airbrush a non-aerosol varnish than it is to use cans of lacquer spray varnish.
Disadvantage of water-based varnishes: Water-based varnishes are acrylic media with suspended matting agents. Once fully dry, a permanent acrylic varnish forms a hard, water-resistant coat. In my experience, lacquer Dullcote is still the tougher finish for miniatures that see frequent handling.
Overall, I use a non-aerosol water-based varnish when I don’t want strong odors around people or pets, or when I’m working at a convention or trade show. Some models in my gallery have a water-based varnish coating, though I eventually cover some of them with lacquer for longer-term storage and display.
Matte Versus Satin Varnish
This is a common question. Here’s the quick answer.
In general, a good matte finish creates a clean look on miniatures. It evens out reflections. If applied properly, matte varnish looks smooth and keeps color contrast high while protecting the work underneath.
Satin is similar to matte, but it leaves a slight sheen. This can help smaller models stand out on the tabletop. If you’re unsure which finish to use, I would lean toward a well-applied matte varnish for a more consistent overall look.
For a deeper comparison of reflective finishes, see my guide to matte versus gloss varnishes for miniatures.
Do I Need a Gloss Varnish Before a Matte Varnish?
This question comes from traditional art methods. On a 2D canvas painting, an isolation coat is useful for long-term preservation. It is usually a gloss medium and a permanent, non-removable sealant that physically protects the paint surface from the varnish above it. An isolation coat helps protect a painted canvas if it ever needs cleaning or conservation.
An isolation coat also seals porous areas on a painting and provides a smoother surface for the final varnish. This can help when a painting may need cleaning or conservation in the future.
When I Use a Gloss Coat Before Matte
A gloss coat gives the final matte varnish a smooth, even base.
Frosting is more likely when matte varnish is applied too heavily, is not mixed properly, or dries under poor temperature and humidity conditions. The matting agents can settle or dry unevenly, leaving a cloudy surface.
When I Skip the Gloss Coat
For most miniatures, I skip the extra gloss coat. Every additional clear layer can soften very fine surface texture, and I usually get the finish I want from thin matte coats alone.
I use gloss when I want a smooth working layer or need more build before the final matte coat.
How to Prevent Cloudy or Frosted Matte Varnish
You don’t always need gloss before matte, but you do need control. A paint job can be spoiled by a heavy coat or poor drying conditions.
Here’s what you can do to prevent the frosted appearance of miniatures when you use a matte varnish:
- Shake the spray varnish vigorously for at least 60 seconds. This redistributes the matting agents before spraying. Do not chill the can; use it within the temperature range on the label.
- Avoid high humidity. I aim for around 50% or lower because that has worked reliably for me. Apply a thin test coat to a spare piece before committing to the miniature. You can get a humidity gauge online.
- A hair dryer can warm the model before varnishing and remove surface moisture. Hold it 6–12 inches away until the miniature is only warm to the touch. Move the dryer away before spraying. Let the varnish dry normally; do not blow hot air across wet lacquer or active solvent vapor.
How I Restore a Frosted Miniature
Oh no!
Did you just ruin your miniature with a frosted matte varnish?
This rescue method has worked for me with aerosol matte varnishes such as Testors Dullcote, Army Painter Anti-Shine, and Krylon Matte Finish. Different formulas can react differently, so test it on a hidden area before treating the whole miniature.
A proven 5-step method for restoring models that have a badly frosted finish:
- Apply a very light coat of olive oil to the frosted area.
- Let it sit for 1–2 hours. Olive oil does not cure like varnish, but it can temporarily restore optical clarity.
- Wipe away the oil thoroughly with a clean paper towel.
- Use a lightly dampened paper towel with a little dish soap to remove the remaining oil. Do not soak the miniature. Let the model dry fully.
- Reapply a thin coat of matte varnish under better drying conditions.
For the complete rescue process and photos, see my guide to fixing foggy varnish on miniatures.
Final Thoughts
These are the 3 best varnishes I recommend for sealing miniatures after an acrylic paint job.
You don’t need gloss varnish before matte on every miniature. A gloss coat can help when you need a smoother base or more build, but I usually get the finish I want from thin matte coats alone. Use thin coats and the right drying conditions to reduce the risk of a cloudy finish. If frosting happens, the rescue steps above may restore the model.
A careful varnish coat is the last bit of attention you give the model, protecting all those hours at the hobby desk. Sealing your miniatures with a high-quality varnish completes the paint job. You’ll be happy you took the time to protect your models, and they will look great in photographs, too!
Did you find this article helpful? I’m always looking for ideas and ways to improve the information you find here. Leave me a comment below! 😃
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By Andrew M. Tan
Andrew is a commissioned miniature painter with more than 20 years of hands-on experience painting tabletop miniatures, photographing models, and testing hobby tools in real-world use. Read his full bio.
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This is the only detailed article about best practices on miniature varnishes I found and I very appreciate the information it gives. Although I found one of your suggestions to be misleading. You say:
“…I currently recommend Liquitex Matte Varnish. … Thin the varnish with water (approximately 1:1 ratio) and airbrush it onto your model.”
However, the product description on Liquitex webpage (https://www.liquitex.com/row/products/professional/gessoes-mediums-varnishes/matte-varnish/) clearly states:
“Do not thin with water”
I think this is important to take into account for better result.
Thank you! Oh yes I should clarify. The liquitex instruction is for brush on application to avoid streaking. Thinning with water is necessary for using the matte varnish with an airbrush (liquitex does not specify how to do this).
I have used Liquitex Matte Varnish with a brush, but recently, I’ve tried to use it and it seems to have lost all of its matte-ness. Do I just need to shake it more? Should I try airbrushing? Does the 1:1 proportions require distilled water? What about Vallejo Airbrush thinner? Would that work for thinning out the Liquitex?
Yeah shake your matte varnish before use every time
How would you varnish metallic paints? Gloss or satin?
Good question. You can use a matte varnish, but yes, a satin varnish would retain more reflection. I wouldn’t use a gloss varnish as you may lose some of the perceived color of the metallic you’re using.
Thanks very much for the reply. I’ve been experimenting with AK Interactive Ultra Matte Varnish. It’s a brush on varnish which provides an amazingly flat finish – noticeably flatter than Testors Dullcote spray. However it’s water based, so reading your article it sounds like it won’t be as durable and protective as the Testors. I may have to go back to using the expensive Testors since I paint for gaming and expect most of my models to get a fair amount of handling. This is a useful and informative article. Thank you.
Hi, some of my miniatures have a sticky touch after varnishing. I was using Krylon. After using Testor’s dullcote over it, they were much less sticky but still. Any thoughts on what could cause this and how to fix this? thanks
Some varnishes are slower to “cure” if they aren’t mixed well. Krylon uses a different formula than Testors Dullcote, which is a enamel-based lacquer. To fix any tackiness, you can try and speed up the drying with a hair dryer. A little dry heat goes a long way to a nice finish 🙂
Excellent tutorial! I’ve included a link to your work in our article: https://alkony.enerla.net/english/the-nexus/miniatures-nexus/miniature-hobby/how-to-use-miniature-varnish
Awesome! Thank you for the share 🙂 – and great article.
Hello! Thanks for a great article. Just one part that seems contradictory to other advice I’ve read, though: many people recommend warming up the spray varnish by putting it in a bucket of warm water for a while, whereas you suggest cooling it down. That’s what I’ve been doing for the very few minis I have painted, and so far it seems okay. Does it depend on your climate? I’m in the UK, generally cool, sometimes damp but not humid. Thanks.
Yeah, it depends on your climate. Humidity is the variable you want to keep an eye on. If it is too humid, the varnish won’t work well. Thanks for the feedback. I can clarify that part 🙂
Hi, I’ve protected my minis in Blood Rage with varnish, but one part of that game is selecting monsters which get snapped into a base of the player’s color when they obtain the monster. I’ve noticed some paint around the rim of the base being chipped off from this base snaping/removal, even though I’ve applied several coats of varnish to the rim to try and protect it. Do you know of a super durable finish I could apply to the rim that would protect it from chipping when player bases are snapped on? thanks!
Hi! The dullcote varnish I mention in the article is one of the most durable finishes you can use on a model. But, it’s a thin layer, so it can only handle so much abuse. If you’re using an enamel varnish, the other option is to use a floor varnish first like Miniwax (https://amzn.to/3ENdAPH), but these dry glossy. You’ll want to still seal over this with a matte finish to get rid of the shine. The great thing about floor varnishes is they are super durable, meant to protect floors from being walked on and with shuffling shoes, furniture, etc., right on top. Give it a try and let me know how it goes?
I don’t mind gloss on the rim since it will be covered with a colored base anyway, so I’ll give it a shot! Thanks!
Is there a difference between lacquer and enamel? Specifically, I’ve been finding Testors spray enamel at a hobby store that looks the same as Testors spray lacquer except for the label…is it actually just the same thing? Thanks!
Hey! No true difference here. Just make sure to apply it the way I suggest in the article (good ambient temp and humidity) and allow to dry before handling.
For other uses in traditional art, FYI – lacquer varnishes are solvent-based, fast-drying, and provide a more rigid finish. Enamel varnishes, on the other hand, are oil-based and take longer to dry, but they offer a more flexible finish. Both work great for hobby work and I’d use them interchangeably.
Again any of the Testors varnishes will work great for miniatures and hobby modeling projects.
Happy painting! 😊🎨