10 Best Glues for Miniatures (Plastic, Resin, Metal)

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10 Best Glues for Miniatures and Models

I use every glue in this guide, although I reach for each one for a different reason. The material, joint size, fit, weight, and stress on the finished model decide which bottle belongs on the desk.

Key Takeaways

• Glue Masters thick cyanoacrylate is my overall favorite for everyday miniature assembly because it gives me control, a useful working time, and a lot of glue for the money.
• Citadel Plastic Glue is the plastic cement I reach for first when I assemble ordinary polystyrene miniatures.
• Tamiya Extra Thin earns its place for very small, pre-fitted plastic parts. I do less of that work now, so the bottle comes out less often.
• Super glue handles resin, metal, mixed materials, magnets, and most 3D prints. Two-part epoxy makes sense when weight, leverage, or a failed joint demands more strength.
• Use the smallest controlled amount that covers the joint. More adhesive usually creates more cleanup, not a better model.

Read on for more information about my recommendations for the best glues for miniatures and models.

Choose Glue by Miniature Material

Miniature kits arrive in hard polystyrene, resin, white metal, 3D-printed plastics, and combinations of all four. The broad advice to “just use super glue” works often enough to survive, although it leaves out the joints where another adhesive gives a cleaner or stronger result.

Plastic cement fuses compatible bare polystyrene surfaces. Cyanoacrylate forms a fast adhesive bond across many materials. Epoxy fills space, gives me time to align a joint, and holds up well when the part is heavy. Once I know the material, the choice becomes much easier.

Best Glue for 3D-Printed Miniatures

I use cyanoacrylate for most PLA, ABS, and cured-resin prints. It works well for the small and medium assemblies that usually cross my desk, and a thicker viscosity helps when layer lines or an imperfect fit leave a narrow gap.

Large printed terrain and load-bearing pieces may need pins or epoxy. I have used Z-Poxy on PLA assemblies and as a surface coating that fills some FDM layer texture before primer. That is a specialized use, but it is one reason the bottle stays in my shop.

Other Adhesives I Keep for Specific Jobs

Bondic UV resin stays in the drawer more often than it comes out. In my experience, it is useful for a few household fixes and shaped fills, but it has not formed a dependable primary bond on miniature plastic or metal. I would not choose it over cyanoacrylate, plastic cement, or epoxy for ordinary assembly.

PVA remains useful for porous basing materials, terrain, sand, and flock. Micro Kristal Klear and other canopy adhesives belong with clear windows and transparent parts where cyanoacrylate frosting would ruin the result. These products solve real problems, but they are not replacements for the three main adhesive families above.

As a commissioned artist for miniatures, I’ve had to assemble all kinds of models. I’ve had to learn through experience what was the best glues to use for assembling miniatures, crafting terrain pieces, and constructing 3D printed parts into a complete model.

Some glues are gels, runny liquids, or sprays (just don’t use it for hair). Depending on your project, you’ll want to use a particular kind of glue. Read on for more details about the best glues for your hobby project.

Best Glue for Plastic Miniatures

For bare polystyrene kits, plastic cement is my first choice. This includes the familiar hard-plastic sprue kits used for many Warhammer miniatures and scale models. Plastic cement softens the mating surfaces so the two pieces fuse as the solvent evaporates. The result is clean and permanent when the joint fits well.

Citadel Plastic Glue is the bottle I reach for first for ordinary miniature assembly. Its narrow nozzle gives me enough control, and the bottle sits securely on the desk while I work. I keep a second bottle in the drawer. That probably says more than another paragraph could.

Tamiya Extra Thin has a narrower job in my current workflow. Its low viscosity runs into the seam between two very small, pre-fitted polystyrene parts. I do not assemble as many tiny parts now, so I use it less often. It remains useful when the fit and scale call for it.

Use cyanoacrylate when the kit mixes materials, when the mating surface has already been painted, or when the plastic is not compatible with styrene cement. Plastic cement will not bond metal or cured resin.

Best Glue for Metal Miniatures

For most metal miniatures, I use cyanoacrylate. White-metal parts are heavier than plastic, and their contact surfaces are often small or imperfect. A medium or thick glue stays where I put it and gives the joint more material to work with.

Large wings, weapons, and awkward load-bearing parts may need a pin, a roughened mating surface, or two-part epoxy. The joint matters as much as the label on the bottle. Smooth metal with almost no contact area can defeat a strong adhesive through simple leverage.

Best Glue for Resin Miniatures

Plastic cement does not bond cured resin. I use cyanoacrylate for most resin miniatures and move to epoxy when the parts are large or heavy.

Wash cast-resin parts when mold-release residue or surface contamination is present, then let them dry completely. Dry-fit the joint before applying glue. Small contact points can benefit from scoring or pinning, especially on pieces that will be transported and handled during games.

How the Three Main Miniature Glues Behave

Cyanoacrylate Super Glue

Cyanoacrylate is the most versatile adhesive on my desk. It bonds resin, metal, many plastics, magnets, and mixed materials. Thin versions wick into tight seams. Medium and thick versions give me more placement control and help bridge small irregularities. Gel stays put on vertical surfaces. For a closer comparison, see my guide to choosing thin, medium, or thick super glue.

The drawbacks are familiar. It bonds skin, fumes can irritate, clear parts can frost, bottles clog, and a hard CA joint can become brittle under leverage. Surface fit still matters.

Plastic Cement

Plastic cement is the cleanest answer for compatible bare polystyrene. It softens the plastic at the joint and allows the parts to fuse. The bond can be remarkably strong because the finished seam becomes plastic again.

The same chemistry limits it. Plastic cement does not bond metal or cured resin, and excess solvent can scar visible detail. Use less than you think you need.

Two-Part Epoxy

Two-part epoxy gives me more working time and fills space between imperfect surfaces. I use it for heavy metal pieces, large resin parts, terrain, and joints where the model’s weight creates leverage.

Mixing takes more work, and the part must stay aligned while the epoxy sets. For tiny miniature components, that extra material and working time can become cumbersome.

Everyone has their opinion on what is the best product for their needs. I hope some of this information is useful for helping you decide on the best way to assemble your models.

Professional Tips for Using Super Glue

Cyanoacrylate is the most versatile glue on my desk, although it also sticks remarkably well to skin.

Quick tip: Acetone can soften cured cyanoacrylate and is found in some nail-polish removers. Follow the product instructions, keep it away from your eyes, and remember that acetone can damage painted surfaces and some plastics. Never pull bonded skin apart by force.

Unlike the white PVA glues used for school crafts, cyanoacrylate cures into a hard acrylic bond. Moisture in the air and on a surface helps start that reaction.

One trick I’ve used to accelerate the bonding of super glue for miniatures is to add a little saliva. This came in especially useful when I was rushed for time during a convention event. I know it’s gross, but it is one way I have used moisture chemistry in the hobby. Commercial cyanoacrylate accelerators are available when you want a more controlled option.

Two-Part Epoxy

Despite the versatility of Super Glues (cyanoacrylate), there are times when you can’t use this adhesive.

In my case, it’s because there isn’t enough ambient moisture on the miniature (e.g., some materials repel water). Or, in some large models that I work with, I’m not sure the super glue has enough strength to remain durable over time.

So, when I’m looking for a stronger bond that can endure some of the stresses imposed on a model, I turn to epoxies. Epoxy based adhesives are the best glues for when you need bonds to withstand breaking force over a long period of time. Even when conditions are poor, such as extreme heat or cold temperature, epoxies can deal with it.

Although a bit more complicated to use, I love this stuff.

Epoxies are suitable for a wide variety of materials. They are just as versatile as super glue. However, because they require the mixing of two parts to begin curing, epoxies can be more complicated to use. Epoxy is best for when you have a plan. Do you know what needs bonding? And, can you you hold those pieces together for sometime while the epoxy cures?

Epoxies have variable cure times, which means you won’t get the instant bonding you may achieve with cyanoacrylate super glue. Choosing the best cure time is a key part of deciding which epoxy to use.

Two-part epoxies bond many kinds of materials such as most metals, including pewter, plastics, and even wood. Unlike super glue, epoxies have better chemical and water resistance that makes them perfect for outdoor applications.

Epoxy is a great construction adhesive for a reason and can work well for gluing miniatures. Of course, I’ve never left a model outside, but I have spilled a beverage or two on models.

Epoxies should be your “go-to” best adhesive when you really don’t want the model to fall apart.

Some of the other benefits of two-part epoxies are that they don’t have the powerful odors of cyanoacrylate super glues. In general, they are safer to use in a smaller environment.

Because their curing process is through chemical mixing of two parts, epoxies are easily cleaned up from any surface, as long as it hasn’t fully cured. This means that epoxy on your skin is much easier to remove.

Quick tip: Uncured epoxy is washed off surfaces with isopropyl alcohol (“rubbing alcohol”).

Another reason I like using epoxies, is that you can predict when the product will bond. Detailed below, the epoxy I recommend cures in 5 minutes following mixing. This allows you time to apply it where you want on your miniatures. Additionally, you’ll know how long to keep the surfaces you want bonded together before you can let go.

Plastic Model Cement

Many of the model kits that we assemble are made of plastic.

Games Workshop models, for example, make most of their miniature line with an injection molded plastics. They sell the “sprue” kits that we cut the pieces from, and assemble into the completed mini.

A lot of scale models of military vehicles, such as planes and tanks, are also created this way. Many of Tamiya’s kits and the Gunpla models are made of styrene-based plastics.

This is why plastic model cement is so popular. It is the best plastic glue to use with plastic kits. Note: plastic cement isn’t a typical glue. More about this below.

Plastic cement is useful for scratch building (I’ve written a little about scratch building and 3D printing here). If you’re a scratch builder, then you should probably consider having plastic cement in your gluing arsenal.

In general, plastic model cement is one of the most respected adhesives in the model-making and miniature hobby world.

Why is that?

Plastic cement work through a unique chemical process whereby the glue melts the two separate plastic surfaces. As the glue cures, the melted plastic solidifies into a single plastic membranous bond.

Essentially, plastic model cement “fuses” plastic together into a single part.

It is a permanent bond.

For some of the more experienced modelers, you may have noticed that Super Glues can create a “frost” over parts. This is especially troublesome for clear parts, like windows for cockpits.

Plastic cement doesn’t have this problem, and are therefore ideal for when you want to glue miniatures that have clear parts that you want to have stay clear. As a canopy glue for model aircraft, plastic cement has stood the test of time and is still one of the most popular glues among hobbyists.

This is the best adhesive for gluing clear parts (Micro Kristal Klear).

Because plastic cement works by dissolving the plastic surfaces, it is better to use small amounts of this glue. Otherwise, you risk “melting” your plastic pieces too far, creating gaps or uneven joints in your minis.

RELATED: COMBINE PLASTIC CEMENT AND OLD PLASTIC KITS TO MAKE “SPRUE GOO” MODEL GAP FILLER

Finally, note that these glues have strong odors with vapors that are harmful. Sure, if you’re “sniffer”, you’ll get a short-acting high, but it won’t be long before you’ll have a headache that never goes away. You should use these glues in a well-ventilated place.

This is still my favorite super glue. I found Glue Masters while looking for a cost-effective bulk adhesive, bought it on a whim, and ended up keeping it within easy reach. The thick formula gives me the control I want for miniature parts without running over the model.

Glue Masters lists the thick formula at 1500 CPS with a 45-to-90-second set time and gap filling up to 1/32 inch. The numbers help explain what I feel at the desk: it stays where I place it, gives me time to position the part, and works across most of the ordinary assembly jobs I encounter.

The larger bottle remains the value argument. The cap and nozzle have also treated me better than many small tubes that harden before I finish them. It is a small thing. Small things are the hobby.

Pros

• Thick, controlled flow
• Useful working time for positioning parts
• Good value in larger bottles
• My most-used CA for everyday miniature assembly

Cons

• A large bottle is more glue than an occasional builder needs
• Thick CA is cumbersome for microscopic seams

Gorilla Super Glue Gel is the standard bottle I see at hardware stores, art stores, and hobby tables. The gel formula gives me control on vertical surfaces and ordinary plastic, resin, or metal repairs. Models I have assembled with it have stayed together through handling and games.

Gorilla gives the gel a 10-to-45-second set time and recommends a small amount on one surface. That last point matters. Excess CA can slow or weaken the bond, and it leaves more hardened glue around the joint.

Pros

• Easy to find locally
• Controlled gel consistency
• Fast set time
• Useful for vertical surfaces and repairs

Cons

• The bottle can age after opening
• Gel is not the best choice for a very tight seam

A friend recommended Zap-A-Gap early in my hobby life, and I picked it up at a local shop. It flowed more easily than the thick glues I was used to and worked its way into uneven joints. I also used the bottle faster for exactly the same reason.

I do not buy it as often now because I watch my hobby budget. It remains a useful choice when a joint needs a glue that can flow and bridge a small irregularity. The bottle design has also clogged less often for me than many alternatives.

I keep BSI Insta-Cure+ in this list for magnets and joints that need a gap-filling CA. Rare-earth magnets can pull themselves out of shallow sockets, and a thicker adhesive gives the bond more surface area around an imperfect fit.

BSI describes Insta-Cure+ as a higher-viscosity adhesive for loose-fitting joints. That use matches the reason it belongs here. It costs more than generic super glue, but the application is specific enough to justify it when a magnetized model needs to survive repeated weapon swaps.

Citadel Plastic Glue is the plastic cement I reach for first. I have one open bottle and another waiting in the drawer. The narrow nozzle gives me enough control for ordinary polystyrene miniature kits, and the bottle can sit on the desk at an angle without immediately spilling its contents.

Plastic cement needs only a small amount. It softens the mating surfaces, and the pieces fuse as the solvent evaporates. On a clean, well-fitted Warhammer kit, that is exactly the bond I want.

Glue applicator ergonomics. Who would have thought?

Tamiya Extra Thin is extremely runny. I use it for very small polystyrene parts that have already been fitted together, where capillary action can pull the cement through a narrow seam. Tamiya describes the formula for the small spaces between pre-fitted parts and includes a pointed brush in the cap.

I do not reach for it often now because I assemble fewer tiny parts. The bottle still earns its place. When the joint needs pinpoint flow, a thicker cement cannot do the same job.

Keep the brush controlled and away from visible detail. Extra-thin cement travels quickly and can scar a smooth plastic surface.

This is the red tube many modelers from my generation remember. The cement is thick, stringy, and patient. I apply it with a toothpick when I want control over a larger styrene surface. One tube can last for years.

The tube also has a habit of pushing cement out when I leave it uncapped. I have watched a puddle appear on the desk while both hands were busy holding a model. Keep the cap close, use ventilation, and do not let the stringy cement touch finished detail.

I keep the non-toxic Testors cement as an option for polystyrene and ABS when I want to avoid the stronger smell of the traditional tube. Testors still lists its non-toxic plastic cements for those two materials.

The label does not turn a solvent product into something I would use carelessly. I still protect the work area, keep the bottle away from children and pets, and follow the product instructions.

J-B Weld is the overkill epoxy. I bought it after getting tired of heavy pewter parts breaking away from ordinary super-glue joints. I have also used it outside the hobby, including a repair on a car bumper.

For most miniatures, the long set and cure time are inconvenient. For a heavy metal component that needs a permanent repair, inconvenience can be worthwhile. Mix equal parts, support the joint, and give it the full time specified by the manufacturer.

Z-Poxy is the epoxy I use for most hobby applications. I mix equal parts, make small batches, and work through large assemblies without racing an instant cure. I have used it to attach heavy models to bases, assemble PLA prints, fill terrain gaps, and create clear water effects.

Zap describes the 30-minute formula as clear, gap filling, and resistant to shock and vibration. Those qualities fit the way I use it. The working time gives me room to align a complicated piece, although it also means the part needs support while the epoxy sets.

Does plastic glue work on resin miniatures?

No. Plastic cement needs compatible styrene surfaces. Use cyanoacrylate for most resin miniatures and epoxy for larger, heavier joints.

Is super glue stronger than plastic cement?

On compatible bare polystyrene, plastic cement creates a fused joint that is difficult to separate cleanly. Cyanoacrylate is more versatile across materials, although the cured joint can become brittle under leverage. “Stronger” depends on the material and joint.

What glue works on painted subassemblies?

Cyanoacrylate can bond painted subassemblies, but the joint is only as strong as the paint attached to the surface. Scrape paint from the mating areas when you need the best bond.

How do I avoid frosting clear parts?

Use a dedicated clear-parts or canopy adhesive. Cyanoacrylate fumes can leave a white haze on transparent plastic.

Should I pin a metal or resin miniature?

Pin joints with small contact areas, heavy parts, or repeated leverage. A metal rod transfers some of the load away from the adhesive layer.

How long should glue cure before priming?

Follow the product instructions and separate set time from full cure. I wait until the joint can be handled without movement before cleaning or priming, and I give heavy epoxy assemblies their full cure time before adding stress. Then continue with preparing an assembled miniature for paint.