Painting black on miniatures is a challenge. Even experienced miniature painters will hesitate when it comes to painting the color black.
In this article, I’ll dive into my quick method for painting a realistic black color on miniatures and models. Here, I will also answer questions like: “How do I shade black?” or “What color do I use to highlight black”.

Key Points:
- Develop an understanding of the unique challenges in painting black on miniatures, including the perception of black in art versus nature.
- Master the technique of creating realistic black colors on miniatures by learning to mix and apply base coats, highlights, and washes effectively.
- Enhance miniature painting skills with specific tips on maintaining the balance between black and highlighted areas, ensuring a realistic and visually appealing result.

Read on to learn how to paint black on miniatures.
Full Material List
To start, here’s a full list of what I use frequently when I’m painting black. You can substitute with whatever close match paints and media you already have or follow the link to see more details of what I prefer.
Basecoat Materials:
- Off-Black Paint: A cornerstone for realistic black, I suggest a very dark gray to start with. This sets a rich foundation for depth.
- Black Paint: Essential for mixing shades and adjusting tones.
- Brighter Color Paint: A hint of blue can lift the flatness, infusing vibrancy into your black.
- A Bit of Water: The artist’s secret to smooth, thin layers; essential for a controlled application.
Specific Paints and Colors:
- Army Painter Matt Black & Ultramarine Blue (any hobby brand): Mix in a 1:1 ratio for an ideal Payne’s gray.
- Vallejo Dark Sea Green: My go-to for nuanced highlights on black surfaces. You can use other similar neutral gray colors and tones for your highlights. I just like this Dark Sea Green because it covers well and I am happy with how it looks with a dry brush.
- White or Ivory paint: I use white or an ivory colored paint (any will do) to lighten the neutral gray (e.g., Dark Sea Green) highlight if I want a stronger contrast in my final black paint job.
Brushes and Tools:
- Dry Brush: To dust on those highlights, creating a subtle contrast gradient over your black painted surface.
- Paintbrush for Base Coats: Your trusty companion for base coating quickly.
Additional Supplies:
- Paper Towel: Keep your brushes clean and to wick excess moisture so it’s ready for the next application.
- Citadel Nuln Oil Shade: The secret to deep shadows and definitive lines.
In a Hurry? HEre is a summary of the 4 basic steps for painting black on miniatures
| Step | Combined Description and Details |
|---|---|
| 1. Basecoat Preparation and Application | Begin with an off-black basecoat, avoiding pure black. I suggest creating a dark Payne’s gray mixture using black and ultramarine blue paint (or a similar shade) for the initial layer. Apply 3-4 thin, even layers for a smooth even basecoat. |
| 2. Highlighting and Maintain Black Dominance | Apply highlights using a lighter gray, like Vallejo’s Dark Sea Green. Employ a dry brush technique for its simplicity and reproducibility, applying the highlight paint pigment to the raised surface of the model. Follow the 50% visible area rule to ensure black remains dominant. Most of the surface should still appear black, maintaining the weighted-balance with more black visible by >50% than highlighted areas. |
| 3. Applying Wash | Use a wash like Citadel’s Nuln Oil to add depth and contrast. Apply liberally, allowing it to pool in recesses to enhance details. Let the wash dry completely. Apply additional layers of the black wash, e.g., Nuln Oil, if necessary for deeper shading (more contrast). |
| 4. Finish Painting the Model | Finish painting the rest of the miniature and complete the base for professional looking results. Done! |
For more specific instructions in how to paint the color black with a professional, realistic finish, you can skip ahead to the full tutorial here.
Or, read on below to find my thoughts, proven tips, and reasons for why I paint black the way I do in my miniature painting work.
Quick Note: Why is Black Hard to Paint, Realistically?
I want to share quickly why I think black throws artists off in many cases, especially in the miniature painting hobby. You scan ahead right to the tutorial, but I think the concepts I share here may be helpful for you, especially if you’re trying to paint black (or very dark, challenging tones and hues) on your models.

We’re artists in the hobby, and that means what we see isn’t necessarily the reality of how things are. In this example with the color black; it’s not merely a color. Black is a concept, an idea that doesn’t actually exist much in nature. Painting black is an art.
Nature vs. Art
In the natural world, what we often perceive as black is actually a composite of various colors in shadow, each contributing to a complex visual experience. Rarely does one encounter a true, pure black.

In art, however, black takes on a more defined role. It’s the anchor in the palette, the contrast against which other colors shine, and the depth that gives the illusion of dimension. For miniature painters, the challenge lies in translating this natural complexity into the artistic medium.

The Illusion of Black
Creating a realistic black on miniatures is about crafting the illusion of depth and texture. It’s not about laying down a flat, monochromatic layer. Instead, it involves a subtle play of light and dark, using variations of black to suggest volume and form.

The goal is to paint something that the eye interprets as black while maintaining enough definition to highlight details and contours.

Here are two key tips for Painting a Realistic Black color:
- Don’t use a pure black paint: instead, use an off-black paint base layer, e.g., very dark gray like Payne’s Gray. An off-black color basecoat will serve as a better base layer than pure black, because it will help you create that realistic effect of black. Pure black will appear flat, lifeless, and you risk having your miniature appear “unfinished” if you leave a pure black color on it.
- Follow the 50% visible color rule: The 50% visible rule states that a viewer will interpret what they see as that specific color if the color covers more than 50% of the visible surface area. In this case with painting black, make sure more than 50% of the area you want to look black remains as black, even after you apply highlights over that part of the model.

Below I’ll explain why these two tips are helpful for painting a realistic black color on your models.
Tip #1 – Avoiding the Pitfall of Pure Black:
Starting with a pure black basecoat might seem intuitive, but it’s a common pitfall. Pure black can be too stark, offering no room for shadows or highlights, and ultimately flattening the miniature’s features. By beginning with an off-black base, you create a richer canvas for building layers and contrasts, mimicking the way light interacts with objects in the real world.

Tip #2 – Understanding the 50% Visible Color Rule in Miniature Painting
When painting miniatures, especially with darker hues like black, it’s crucial to adhere to the 50% visible color rule. This rule is a guiding principle in miniature painting, asserting that if more than half of a visible surface area is covered with a particular color, it will be predominantly perceived as that color.

Applying this concept to black, it’s important to ensure that over 50% of the area you intend to appear black remains so, even after adding highlights.
This technique is key in maintaining the intended color perception, particularly when working with black, which can easily be overpowered by lighter colors used for highlighting. By following this rule, you ensure that your miniature retains its desired color integrity and depth, especially in the areas meant to be perceived as black.

Recommendation: Start By Making your own Off-Black Color for the Basecoat
When it comes to painting black on miniatures, your approach to preparation can make the difference between a flat, lifeless black and one that is full of depth and realism.

The first step is to avoid starting with a pure black basecoat. Instead, use an off-black color to provide a nuanced foundation for further layers.

I love using a custom mix combining a 1:1 ratio of black paint with ultramarine blue, which creates a Payne’s gray.

This off-black hue has the depth needed for realistic shadows and will serve as a versatile undercoat for both warm and cool black applications.

You can also buy Payne’s Gray as a standalone paint color. However, be careful because arts & craft grade paints may not have sufficient coverage or proper brush behavior for a satisfactory finish at miniature scales.

In my case, making my own with hobby brand acrylic paint seems to create a reliable Payne’s Gray mix that has great pigment coverage and works well.
4 Steps for how to paint black on miniatures
Step 1: The Base Coating and Application Process
Start by ensuring your miniature is clean and primed. A primed surface will allow the paint to adhere better and give a more even coat.
After you prime your model (you can use an airbrush to prime, too), you’ll want to start your painting with the base coat color, which sets the stage for all the layers you’ll place on top.

Then, prepare your palette with the off-black base paint you mixed earlier (i.e., Payne’s Gray), ensuring it’s thinned appropriately with water for a smooth application. I tend to only add a drop or two to most of my hobby paints to start.
Don’t add water if you think the paint is thin enough to flow easily off your brush. Adding too much water will speed up the paint drying, create unwanted splotchy effects, and require you to apply multiple extra layers to create a smooth, even coverage with your basecoat color.

Use a large, reliable brush for the base coat. The aim is to cover larger areas quickly, without sacrificing the details of the miniature. Indeed, multiple thin layers is better than a single thick layer. There’s a balance here, though, as I mentioned that overly-thinning your paints can lead to complications and slow you down unnecessarily.

Allow each layer to dry completely before applying the next. This avoids any unwanted texture and ensures the true color of the base coat comes through.

Once you’ve achieved solid coverage, inspect your miniature for any unevenness or areas that need a touch-up.
Step 2: Highlighting and Maintain Black Dominance
Highlighting is a technique that can transform a good miniature into a great one. It’s all about enhancing the most prominent features and making details stand out.
The key to highlighting black is subtlety. The contrast between black and the highlight color should be noticeable but not stark.
Use a light gray or off-white for the highlights. The chosen color should be a few shades lighter than the base color but not so light that it distracts from the miniature’s overall black appearance.

Dry brushing is an effective method for highlighting black surfaces
Dry brushing involves dipping a dry brush into the paint, wiping off most of it, and then lightly brushing over the raised areas.
RELATED: HOW TO DRY BRUSH MINIATURES (SIMPLE TIPS AND TUTORIAL)
The color for highlighting black will depend on the overall tone you’re aiming for. If you’re in doubt, choose a neutral color. For more advanced highlighting and undercoating techniques, take a look at how glazing works and see if this is helpful to you.

Dark Sea Green from Vallejo can be a good starting point for a neutral highlight. (Yes, I know it says green, but Dark Sea Green is really just a very nice gray color with excellent paint coverage). You can mix it with a small amount of white paint (a tiny dot is all you need) to increase its brightness if you want to push the value brighter.
Pay attention to “black dominance” over the surface of your miniature
Follow the 50% visible rule as I mentioned above to make sure your final paint job continues to look “black” on your miniature. The 50% visible rule will help you maintain the balance between the black base (which is really your off-black color, e.g., Payne’s Gray) and the highlighted areas.

Your highlights should not overpower the black, but rather complement it. Again, apply the highlights sparingly. The goal is to suggest the curvature and texture of the surface rather than to change its perceived color. By carefully placing highlights and preserving the integrity of the black basecoat, you can achieve a realistic and visually appealing result on your miniatures.

Step 3: Applying Washes
Washes are an essential part of the black painting process, settling into the recesses of your miniature to create natural shadows and depth.
A black wash, such as Citadel’s Nuln Oil, is perfect for deepening the shades on your miniature without obscuring the work you’ve done. Yes, you can use other hobby brand washes or shades, e.g., Army Painter or Vallejo Black Wash. But, just be aware that Citadel’s Nuln Oil in my opinion is the easiest to use reliably.

Apply the wash liberally. Shade pooling in the recesses is OK.

Allow your coat of wash/shade to dry completely. Then, take a step back an decide if you think the surface needs another coat. Adding a second or third coat of a black shade or wash will darken the miniature’s surface.
READ MORE: WASH OR SHADE? WHAT’S THE DIFFERENCE?

If you think your model’s surface isn’t “black enough” for you, i.e., it’s too gray, then apply another coat of the blackening wash. This will push the shadows toward the black part of the value spectrum. And, for those who are concerned that their highlights were too bright in the earlier step, applying more coats of Nuln Oil shade or similar wash will fix this issue.

What I find amazing about this step is that the black paint job emerges quickly at this stage. Here, the illusion of the off-black and highlight layers blend together into a high-contrast interplay that appears as true, realistic black.


Step 4: Finish Painting Your Model
When you’re done painting the black surface of your miniature, you can continue finishing the rest of the model if you haven’t already.
Also, remember to finish the base of your miniature. The base of your miniature contributes to the overall aesthetic and should not be neglected.
RELATED: BEST BASING KITS FOR TABLETOP GAMING MINIATURES, SCALE MODELS AND DIAROMAS
For those looking for a simple and quick method to finish the base of their miniatures, I recommend a texture paste, like Vallejo Texture Paste, to create realistic ground or surface texture.

Vallejo Texture pastes come in all sorts of colors and textures and isn’t expensive. The same 200ml bottle has served me for hundreds of miniatures over many years. Just make sure you keep that lid tight so it doesn’t dry out.

To apply Vallejo or a similar basing texture paste, I use a plastic spatula or similar texture tool. Then, I let it dry. Once dry, if you want to, you can paint over the texture to tie it in with the theme of your miniature.

Once satisfied, seal your miniature with a matte varnish to protect your work and bring out the colors.
Here’s my full Tutorial Video about painting black on miniatures
Conclusion
“Black is more Than Meets the eye”
Remember, painting black is more than just using one color; it’s about creating an illusion of light and shadow, depth and detail.
I hope you found this tutorial helpful. At the very least, if you’ve found some new ideas or methods to try in your work, then I would consider that a success.
I’m sure some of you may have questions or other ideas with your process, and I’d love to hear them. Please leave me a comment below. And as always, feedback is highly-welcome!
Until next time, happy miniature painting (black)!
Enjoying Your Visit? Join Tangible Day
Free newsletter with monthly updates (no spam)





Tangible Day on YouTube (Miniatures and More!)

I’m interested what your opinion is of the Black Citadel Contrasts paint? I’ve been using Black Legion for smaller areas and find it to be excellent.
I will shortly be starting a new project with some larger areas I want to paint Black, so I guess I will see if it still holds up for the larger spaces. I guess I will try mixing and matching between Contrast and your method. 🙂
Oh I used the contrast black on the rifle you see in the photos here. It’s good, but a bit unreliable for my tastes. For larger surfaces, painting “black” is simply what I do. But combining the two may work as well if you’re able to get the contrast paint to “behave” 🙂 let me know? I’d love to see (I have a contact me page here )
Thanks for a great tutorial.
You paraphrased one of my favorite mini-painting rules with your 50% rule; “Highlights should be bright, not broad!”
Thank you! I’m so glad you found this helpful!